skip to main |
skip to sidebar
WALLET INSIDE
4 Pin inside center piece and inside facing pieces with right sides together and raw edges even along the long straight edge of the center facing. Stitch and press seam toward the facing.
ATTACHING THE POCKETS
5 Place wa llet inside on a flat surface with right side facing up.
6 Place the upper pocket on the inside with wrong sides together and raw edges even. Repeat with the middle pocket, and again with the lower pocket. Pin pockets in place to secure.
7 Topstitch down the center of the middle and lower pockets, sewing through all the layers and facings. [FIGURE 2]
8 Machine baste along the outer edges % inch (6 mm) from the edge to hold all the layers together. Turn under, and press along the basting line.
ASSEMBLING THE WALLET
9 Turn under and press V4 inch (6 mm) along all edges of the wa llet front.
10 Pin the wallet front and the inside of the wallet with wrong sides together and edges even. Stitch along all sides close to the edge.
3 Pin one handle to the right side of one body piece at placement lines, raw edges of handle even with the bottom of the bag .
4 Topstitch in place close to each edge of the handles. Topstitch across the handle, matching the stitching line of the band. [FIGURE 2]
TOTE OUTSIDE
5 Pin the tote body pieces, with right sides together and raw edges even, along the two side edges. Stitch and press the seam open.
6 Pin the tote bottom to the bottom edge of the tote, with right sides together and raw edges even, matching the dots and seams. Stitch and press seam toward the tote bottom. [FIGURE 3]
ZIPPER
7 Place zipper tape along the edge of one of the facing pieces with right sides together. The top of the zipper should be 1/4 inch (6 mm) from one short end of the band, and the end of the zipper will extend beyond the band by several inches. The edge of the zipper tape should be even with the raw edge of the band. [FIGURE 4]
8 Place the zipper lining band over the zipper (so the zipper is sandwiched between the fabric and lining). Align the edges, pin then stitch through all three layers, about 1/a inch (3 mm) from the zipper teeth. Finger press the lining away from the zipper.
9 Repeat with the remaining edge of the zipper.
10 Edge st itch from the right side of the lining fabric through all layers. [FIGURES]
11 Turn under 1/4 inch (6 mm) along all edges of the zipper tab, and press. Fold in half over the end of the zipper with wrong sides together, matching the short ends. Stitch around all edges. [FIGURE 6]
SINGER SEWING TIP
When a project calls for a 1/4-inch (6-mm) seam, we recommend using a 1/4-inch foot, which is very popular with machine quilters. If you can't find this foot, then try positioning your needle so that it sews exactly 1/4 of an inch (6 mm) from the edge of your standard zigzag foot. A zipper foot will also work well for this task.
TIPS FOR SEWING WITH HEAVY THREADS
1. Use large needles: size 18 or 20 depending on thickness of thread and density of fabric.
2. Use a topstitching needle. This need le has a larger eye and deeper scarf (the groove in the front of the needle) to accommodate the thread
3. Lengthen the stitch to 8-10 stitches per inch or 4 mm. A larger thread takes more room to for the stitch. A short stitch length will result in poorly formed stitches and thread jams.
4. Sew slowly. Thicker threads are sometimes less flexible and need to be handled more carefully.
5. Increase top tension. It takes more tension on he heavier thread to pull up the bobbin thread, especially if you are using the heavier thread in the bobbin as well.
Ruffles and Gathers
Use a heavy thread such as topstitching or upholstery thread to sew stitches, gathering stitches especially on thick, heavyweight fabrics or leathers. It will not break when you pull up the gathers and will support the weight of the fabric.
Hand Sewing
Threads such as hand quilting thread and button and craft thread are designed for hand sewing. They have a glace finish that protects them from abrasion when being
pulled through the fabric.
Sewing Buttons, Snaps, and Other Fasteners
Button and craft thread is stronger than all-purpose thread and is a better choice especially for a button that is functiona l.
Sewing Straps and Handles
Use a heavy-duty thread for added strength when sewing on weight bearing straps and handles. Be sure to switch to a larger-size need le, as these areas are typica lly thicker than the body of the bag.
Stitch Length
The appropriate stitch length depends on the purpose of the stitching and fabric. Follow these general recommendations:
General purpose stitching: 2.5 mm (10-12 stitches per inch)
Topstitching: 3-4 mm (6-8 stitches per inch)
Basting, gathering, easing: 4 mm (6 stitches per inch) Reinforcement stitching: 1.5 mm (15-20 stitches per inch)
Selecting Thread
For the best color match, buy your fabric and thread at the same time. Select thread that is a shade darker than your fabric because it will appear lighter when it is sewn into the fabric . For plaids, tweeds, and prints, select thread to match the predominant color.
General
When sewing through thick fabrics or multiple layers, guide the fabric and let the feed dogs do the work. Pushing or pulling can bend the needle, which can cause skipped stitches and thread breakage. When sewing through metallics, sequins, or fabrics with special fin ishes, be sure to use a needle that is large
enough and change it frequently. These special fabrics wear on the needle, causing burrs or rough spots that will cause the thread to break.
XP THREAD ADVISOR
Use the chart on page 17, a handy guide to new Dual Duty XP and other threads manufactured for fashion sewing, quilting, machine embroidery, home decorating
sewing, craft sewing, and special embellishment techniques. It provides nformation on matching thread to different fabric types and guides to needle selection.
LEATHER
Leather is nature's product: beautiful, appealing, luxurious,
and timeless. Attractive to our senses, we love the
way it feels and smells.
Leather can come from almost any animal, is sold per
square foot, and is called skins. Cow hides tend to be
strong, are more consistent across the skin, and are typically
used for casual handbags because they are more
durable. Sheep, lamb, and ca lfskin are lighter in weight,
softer, and typical of a more expensive bag. The cost per
skin is reflected in quality, the treatment of or finish to
the skin, and the availability of the animal.
Most leather bags on Canal Street in New York City
are pigskin. Reptile skins are also popular. Snake, eel,
lizard, fish, and even turtle skins are used. These skins
also have a variety of finishes such as antiqued, glazed,
patent, or suede. With today's technology, there is virtually
no end to the different varieties of leather.
TYPES OF SKINS AVAILABLE
Cowhide: best for luggage and cases
Calf: hand bags and wallets
Sheep/lamb: small bags, handbags, evening bags
Goat/kids: wallet, structured bags
Pigskin: smaller bags, handbags
Shearlings: used for winter bags
Reptile: alligator, lizard, snakeskin (such as python, anaconda), used for fancy leather goods
FINISHES AND TANNING PROCESSES
Aniline finish: full grain leather colored with dyestuf rather than pigments
Buffed: leather that has been smoothed or sueded by mechanical sanding
Embossed: a mechanical process, using lots of heat and pressure, that permanently imprints different effects into the leather surface; can resemble exotic skins, such as lizards, alligator, crocodi le, frogs, turtle; floral, geometric, and basket weave are available
Full grain: grain leather in which only the hair has been removed; available in aniline or glazed finishes
Glazed finish: surface of the leather polished to high luster
Split: the underneath layer of the side that has been split off
Suede: leathers finished by buffing the flesh side to produce a nap
The physical properties of leather have unique and valuable qualities. Functional, flexible, and strong, we can match specific types of leather to various end-use items. Cowhide and calfskin are best used for briefcases, backpacks, camera bags, hobos, buckets, barrels, drawstrings, messenger bags, satchels, and totes. Softer, more delicate skins, like lambskin and pigskin, are used for envelopes, evening bags, drawstrings, and frame bags. The small, flat grain of the kidskins and more grainy goatskins are best for structured bags and wallets.
SYNTHETICS
Synthetic leather is usually referred to as either PU
(polyurethane) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride). They can also
come in a variety of finishes, some the same as leather.
Synthetic suede is also very popular and is typica lly
referred to as Ultrasuede®, a common brand used in everything
from fashion to home furnishings. Synthetics are
sold by the ya rd and have the same nuances as leather;
they come in different grades and weight. In addition to
being animal friendly, synthetics also avoid the inequalities
and imperfections that animal skins possess.
OTHER MATERIALS
Other materials range from any fabric you would see
on a garment, jacket, or even couch: straw (natural or
synthetic), canvas, burlap, velvet, tapestry, lace, satin,
silk, and even yarn.
1. Drop: Measure from the height of the top handle (in the middle of the handle) down to the top seam of the bag body.
2. Height: Measure from the center top seam of the bag to center bottom seam of the bag.
3. Length: Measure the front of the bag from the bottom left seam to the bottom right seam.
4. Width (often referred to as the Gusset): Measure from the front side seam to the back side seam.
*Keep in mind that handbag sections often taper or widen, so it is a good idea to specify any size variations of the section that you have measured.
KEY TERMS
Piece Good: Material that a bag is mostly composed of, for example pie, fabric, etc.
Trim: Any material that is used as an accent or decoration.
Top Handle: A type of handle not long enough to go over the shoulder, it allows the bag to be held in the hand or in the crook of the elbow.
*The top handles of this bag are "rolled," which is a treatment applied to the material to give it a tubular shape (as opposed to a flat handle).
Seam: The line where piecegoods are stitched together.
Top Zip: A type of zippered main closure that runs along the top of the bag body.
Hardware: Any metal, plastic or jewel that acts as a connector, closure, clasp, or decoration.
Bag Body: The central and largest compartment of the handbag.
Flap: Portion of the bag or pocket that reaches over the top of a gusset, usually closing the top opening of the gusset.
Top Stitch: Any visible stitching, usually close to seams. Top stitching can be decorative, functiona l, or both.
Gusset: The triangular end piece of a handbag or pocket that gives depth.
Feet: Small, usually metal, pegs placed on the bottom of a bag to add stability and protect.
Zipper: A fastening device consisting of three major parts:
a.) zipper teeth;
b.) zipper tape;
c.) zipper pulley. Each of these should be specified when requesting samples.
*Often, a small D-ring {D-shaped metal ring) with a stitched zipper tab or a tassel acts as a zipper pulley.
