FABRIC AND THREAD TIPS

TIPS FOR SEWING WITH HEAVY THREADS
1. Use large needles: size 18 or 20 depending on thickness of thread and density of fabric.
2. Use a topstitching needle. This need le has a larger eye and deeper scarf (the groove in the front of the needle) to accommodate the thread
3. Lengthen the stitch to 8-10 stitches per inch or 4 mm. A larger thread takes more room to for the stitch. A short stitch length will result in poorly formed stitches and thread jams.
4. Sew slowly. Thicker threads are sometimes less flexible and need to be handled more carefully.
5. Increase top tension. It takes more tension on he heavier thread to pull up the bobbin thread, especially if you are using the heavier thread in the bobbin as well.
Ruffles and Gathers
Use a heavy thread such as topstitching or upholstery thread to sew stitches, gathering stitches especially on thick, heavyweight fabrics or leathers. It will not break when you pull up the gathers and will support the weight of the fabric.
Hand Sewing
Threads such as hand quilting thread and button and craft thread are designed for hand sewing. They have a glace finish that protects them from abrasion when being
pulled through the fabric.
Sewing Buttons, Snaps, and Other Fasteners
Button and craft thread is stronger than all-purpose thread and is a better choice especially for a button that is functiona l.
Sewing Straps and Handles
Use a heavy-duty thread for added strength when sewing on weight bearing straps and handles. Be sure to switch to a larger-size need le, as these areas are typica lly thicker than the body of the bag.
Stitch Length
The appropriate stitch length depends on the purpose of the stitching and fabric. Follow these general recommendations:
General purpose stitching: 2.5 mm (10-12 stitches per inch)
Topstitching: 3-4 mm (6-8 stitches per inch)
Basting, gathering, easing: 4 mm (6 stitches per inch) Reinforcement stitching: 1.5 mm (15-20 stitches per inch)
Selecting Thread
For the best color match, buy your fabric and thread at the same time. Select thread that is a shade darker than your fabric because it will appear lighter when it is sewn into the fabric . For plaids, tweeds, and prints, select thread to match the predominant color.
General
When sewing through thick fabrics or multiple layers, guide the fabric and let the feed dogs do the work. Pushing or pulling can bend the needle, which can cause skipped stitches and thread breakage. When sewing through metallics, sequins, or fabrics with special fin ishes, be sure to use a needle that is large
enough and change it frequently. These special fabrics wear on the needle, causing burrs or rough spots that will cause the thread to break.
XP THREAD ADVISOR
Use the chart on page 17, a handy guide to new Dual Duty XP and other threads manufactured for fashion sewing, quilting, machine embroidery, home decorating
sewing, craft sewing, and special embellishment techniques. It provides  nformation on matching thread to different fabric types and guides to needle selection.