SEWING SKILLS

LEATHER
Leather is nature's product: beautiful, appealing, luxurious,
and timeless. Attractive to our senses, we love the
way it feels and smells.

Leather can come from almost any animal, is sold per
square foot, and is called skins. Cow hides tend to be
strong, are more consistent across the skin, and are typically
used for casual handbags because they are more
durable. Sheep, lamb, and ca lfskin are lighter in weight,
softer, and typical of a more expensive bag. The cost per
skin is reflected in quality, the treatment of or finish to
the skin, and the availability of the animal.

Most leather bags on Canal Street in New York City
are pigskin. Reptile skins are also popular. Snake, eel,
lizard, fish, and even turtle skins are used. These skins
also have a variety of finishes such as antiqued, glazed,
patent, or suede. With today's technology, there is virtually
no end to the different varieties of leather.

TYPES OF SKINS AVAILABLE

Cowhide: best for luggage and cases
Calf: hand bags and wallets
Sheep/lamb: small bags, handbags, evening bags
Goat/kids: wallet, structured bags
Pigskin: smaller bags, handbags
Shearlings: used for winter bags
Reptile: alligator, lizard, snakeskin (such as python, anaconda), used for fancy leather goods

FINISHES AND TANNING PROCESSES

Aniline finish: full grain leather colored with dyestuf rather than pigments
Buffed: leather that has been smoothed or sueded by mechanical sanding
Embossed: a mechanical process, using lots of heat and pressure, that permanently imprints different effects into the leather surface; can resemble exotic skins, such as lizards, alligator, crocodi le, frogs, turtle; floral, geometric, and basket weave are available
Full grain: grain leather in which only the hair has been removed; available in aniline or glazed finishes
Glazed finish: surface of the leather polished to high luster
Split: the underneath layer of the side that has been split off
Suede: leathers finished by buffing the flesh side to produce a nap
The physical properties of leather have unique and valuable qualities. Functional, flexible, and strong, we can match specific types of leather to various end-use items. Cowhide and calfskin are best used for briefcases, backpacks, camera bags, hobos, buckets, barrels, drawstrings, messenger bags, satchels, and totes. Softer, more delicate skins, like lambskin and pigskin, are used for envelopes, evening bags, drawstrings, and frame bags. The small, flat grain of the kidskins and more grainy goatskins are best for structured bags and wallets.

SYNTHETICS

Synthetic leather is usually referred to as either PU
(polyurethane) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride). They can also
come in a variety of finishes, some the same as leather.
Synthetic suede is also very popular and is typica lly
referred to as Ultrasuede®, a common brand used in everything
from fashion to home furnishings. Synthetics are
sold by the ya rd and have the same nuances as leather;
they come in different grades and weight. In addition to
being animal friendly, synthetics also avoid the inequalities
and imperfections that animal skins possess.

OTHER MATERIALS

Other materials range from any fabric you would see
on a garment, jacket, or even couch: straw (natural or
synthetic), canvas, burlap, velvet, tapestry, lace, satin,
silk, and even yarn.